The Prague Journal
The Prague Journal
Tuesday, April 10th – The Prague Airport.
I think I'll use a pen today – I don't really know why. I've been in this airport, mostly at this table, for around 18 hours now, with 24 to go until my flight leaves for Edinburgh. I am impatient to be gone, which is one of the reasons I came here two days early. The other is that I've spent too much money on this trip. So, I've kept some by not buying a hostel – and I have learned it is too cold to sleep outside at night here. But there's got to be a story about that, doesn't there? Of course; And, seeing as how I've already played 31 games of solitaire, of which I won 6 intermediate levels, it's time to write, I guess. I could use more sleep, I suppose. And this will be a long entry – so expect breaks and changes in handwriting. (Do other people change their handwriting depending on mood? I wonder.)
Day #1. March 31st – Edinburgh to Prague to Vienna
Well, it began [with the forging of the great rings] with a late night hanging out, listening to music and playing cars with Brian Kerr and Kari's friend. That was the end of a good, long week, where I did little but watch West Wing, and chill with Graeme, David in the beginning, and Poppy. It was actually a very good time, which might explain my later lonesomeness. At 4 AM, I got my bags together (three: hiking pack, MegaTokyo European-carry-all, and small rucksack), and walked the dark walk to Waverly Bridge. From there, the bus to the airport, where I was delayed, for an hour and a half, which didn't really matter. I really don't mind airports – they are usually so well-lighted, and that makes me view them as sterile. Time in an airport doesn't really exist as it does elsewhere. It stands still as it goes by, like a man on an escalator. As well, the opportunities for distraction are greatly diminished. One is forced to find a way to kill time, instead of merely lazing about. This day, I bought the Times, read an article on Ian McKellen and World of Warcraft, and did some Sudoko. My plane arrived eventually, as is usual, and I headed off. Due to costs, I had decided not to fly to Bratislava or Vienna direct – I went to Prague, instead. In retrospect, it wasn't so bad an idea, as I was able to see pretty much all of Czech-land, as it's easier to call it. From the airport I bumbled my way to the bus station, getting some kroner along the way, and from there to the train station, where I spent around €31 on a ticket to Vienna. (The plane cost 115 pounds, + five for the bus. I haven't really bothered yet to figure out the exact krone correlations, but it as 45 one way for the train. But who cares. Money was spent.)
My cellphone was not at all liking Europe, and the entire trip I had difficulties contacting Jacob Neubacher and Poppy, Sandra, and Tobias. I borrowed a phone to reach Neubacher, and never reached the others. As it was, I found myself with no means of communication traversing the entire Czech Republic, which looked a lot more normal than I expected, although very poor. The little hills were reminiscent of New England, the mills of the rust belt, and the squatters on the sides of the tracks of West Virginia. Very depressing, and yet wholesome in a way I can't think how to describe – simple. Eventually, I crossed the border into Austria, and made it to the scrumgiest train stop in Vienna; it was reminiscent of a few places in Edinburgh, so I felt a bit at home (insert laugh). After waiting forever, Jacob came, and we went to his house. I met his family, who were large and Austrian and scared me a bit. Then I fell asleep. A long day.
Day #2. April 1st – Vienna to Venice
I awoke, and had a confusing breakfast that was altogether hearty, with boiled eggs, toast, and the like. We packed, for into the car after two trial runs with Mr. Neubacher, whose size and gruffness was about as intimidating as my AAA test. It was a small semi-automatic VW, with great gas mileage and a gear system that took me a bit to get used to. We had packed food in the trunk. (Oh yes, the previous night Jake had showed me a bit of Vienna, Not much, at all. I wasn't really interested – I was already missing Edinburgh, and Jake's accent didn't help anything. Really harsh and American, actually.) We, meaning I, since Jacob didn't drive, drove from Vienna south through long, sloping, lovely white and somewhat forested mountains. We stopped several times, for me to stretch and Jacob to buy more beer and smoke, two things that silently irritated me for the entire trip. I really detest smoking and non-social drinking; they're just wastes. At one point we drove off with a full bottle on top of the car. I felt embarrassed and gratified, so I laughed about it. I found myself lying about my emotions often, which means they can't have been that bad.
The mountains on the Italian border and after were beautiful, as were the tunnels through them. Waterfalls, tall peaks with snow, castles – very picturesque. We went easily through the border, and stopped soon after to walk by a beautiful, clear, algid river with a wide flood plain, which must pour out of the mountains as a torrent on a normal, northern spring. Lots of trash but the roadside. Eventually, we got near to Venice, where we had a lot of confusion trying to find a parking lot. Two hours later we pulled into the car garage they had, and got out to view Venice at night. I had driven around six-seven hours, going around 130-160 kilometres per hour. We had played a few road games – I won every game we played on the trip, except for the lizard-sighting one, because Jacob walked up front. Anyway, we walked into the city, and got lost. Jake was bad at maps, and I was too tired to bother. We saw some fishermen using 10-inch cuttlefish as bait, and saw some of the normal sights. It's true, by the way: eastern European women are often very attractive, but the Italians are generally lacing in that respect. But, eventually we found a place to eat, and had a good Italian pizza each, which was lovely and burned my mouth for days, and was too expensive. The deal was that I pay for all the gas with my card, and Jacob would use my half as credit for other stuff. I sure hope I wasn't charged exorbitant fees. As it was, I payed probably €2-300 for the gas on the trip. Finally, we crawled back to the car – for €20, a pretty good hostel, even though the seats weren't fully reclinable and sleeping cramped against the wheel did more harm than good. But to bed.
Day #3. April 2nd – Venice to Porto Venere
[Insert: Lunch break. Solitaire: 35 games, eight wins. ... 40 games, eleven wins.]
We woke up sometime. Walked into Venice on a surprisingly warm day. We were looking for a Billa, for food, and for a tape-iPod adapter for the car. Both were found. We walked through the city, which was crowded with tourists but still clean. It's not a very manly place – all shops, and overpriced food. I can't imagine living there. We had some gelatti, while sitting on a pier on the water. And then, having gotten food, we were off – for another six or so hours of driving, this time across the entire neck (panhandle?) to south of Genova (Genoa) and a place called La Spezia. There, we looked for a parking place and a supermarket, again, and proceeded to park in a quite questionable area, meaning no signs, around three kilometres from the village we wanted to start from, Porto Venere. The area is known as Cinqueterra, and is warm, right on the Mediterranean sea, with large jagged cliffs of caramel-coloured stone. The water was clear and cool, and the sun was splitting stones. Having walked into the port, we found a nice looking church on a place called 'Byron's Grotto' – probably due to Byron. It sure was romantic enough, with a beautiful sunset framed by an abbey, a cove, a castle, and cliffs with wheeling gulls and gull-wheeled waves. We found a nice landing place, and treated ourselves to throwing stones, and a hot meal. Then, the sun having set, we laid out the sleeping bags under the stars. And here the differences in our temperaments came into full swing: I, mostly subservient in the day, nocturnally flame at night with energy, while Jacob becomes less headstrong and more passive at night. So it was, that, thirty minutes in the bags, I ask if he wants to continue. He says yes, and, exclaiming over the magnificence of the spontaneity of night hiking (clearly not a veteran at spontaneous hiking, as I had schooled myself in the past summer of '06), we pack and head out under a moon a night or two away from full waxing. We head up for a bit, and skirt the castle, when we pass by these monstrous caves. We dropped packs and spelunked, as some of the man-made routes went pretty far into the rock. There was trash and old rusted industrial equipment, but besides that no indication of the caves previous usage. A few cat/squirrel skeletons mothing in the back ways. And so, adding two types of spelunking to the list of activities (the other type is, of course, throwing rocks into the ocean and hearing them go 'spelunk' – onomatopoeia at its finest.) Then we spent an hour or so labouring, sweating more than a woman in labour, up a mountain, till we had a grand view of the sea, for a few kilometres, dashing itself inexorably on cliffs far down on the shore. We hiked along for a bit more till I found a place I thought suitably comfortable (grass swards are far better than the concrete Jacob at first suggested), next to a giant old fortress. The next 8-10 hours were spent whining internally, in a long battle against the wind and cold, as we were to lazy to pitch a tent.
Day #4. April 3rd – Schiara
Waking five or six times to a less-full-each-time car lot, I discovered, despite my dreams, I was nowhere near any tourists. The land we were on was in fact military, and trespassing was prohibited. We disregarded this for the few minutes it took us to wake, eat, and sit around for an hour, taking pictures and charting our course by eye on the distant cliffs. After eating half a baguette stuffed with prosciutto, a favourite on the trip, we set out on a path towards the road. Thirty minutes later we were altogether somewhere else, and started to go around a second headland on a different hiking path (the area was full of them.) We spotted a few lizards, a rather large quarry, some gigantic tankers and battleships harboured at La Spezia across the bay, many rock-climbing designated cliffs, and a few Germans. Having walked another two hours in the heat of midday, we came to a small town, where we got more food, water, and deliberations as to the route ahead. We had planned to hit a beach down by the sea near a small, car-less village called Schiara. The map, we found later, was inaccurate. The paths were not where we thought they were, the descent was less of a hike and more of a climb (ironically, I had to stop often from exhaustion. huh) and the 'beach' was six or twelve little one or two room deserted cottages on a few god-forsaken rocks battered by the sea. We explored a bit, saw a large yacht, and sunned. Jacob proceeded to force his way into some of the houses, which looked as if they had been deserted for years. We found no evidence to the contrary, and the newest date on a magazine was 2005. He, being particularly fond of one house, cleaned it out and made it semi-habitable. (Luckily, I had him try the bunk beds first. Think for a bit.) We had dinner, which was a fiasco, as Jacob spilled both dishes he made somehow. All in all, I hated the place. We went swimming. And here is the lacuna you've all been waiting for. [Suffice to say, a lot of things I shan't ever forget happened. Legomena, phainomena, dromena.] ... and, exhausted, we finally reached the car at almost exactly 1:00 AM, after around 20 kilometres. We quickly got our things together, Jacob smashed his unopened bottle of wine he had in the car, and we went to bed in the little VW. It had been a long day, after all.
Day #5. April 4th – Porto Venere to Trieste
We awoke, glad the car had still been there, glad we had hiked out of Schiara in the night, and glad there was no hiking left to do. Jacob was for finding a beach: I vetoed the idea, and so we turned bumper to Porto Venere and La Spezia, heading out towards Parma, then towards Milan, then Venice. Six hours later, probably around 4, we stopped 20 miles before Venice at a rest stop, to recharge the iPod and our stomachs. There was a most expensive, yet hearty meal – the salad was good. While we were there, we decided to go past Venice and the upper Adriatic, to go past Trieste and down into Croatia, through Slovenia. the plan was to sleep there that night, and to drive through all of Slovenia the nest day, back to Vienna. However, 'twas not to be. To the sound of Stairway to Heaven, Jacob's expired passport was rejected at the border, and so we went instead to a place called Muggio just south of Trieste on the sea. It was windy, but I walked around the town and the harbour – there were many, many boats and a few yachts, and I had ten hours of driving on incredibly sore legs after the 20 km hike the night before. We found a parking lot, and fell to another night of troubled, cramped sleep. A long, boring day.
Day #6. April 5th – Trieste to Salzburg
We awoke, I brushed my teeth, and were pretty much right off north to Austria, to the sounds of Negrita's 'Rotolando Verso Sud' and Sufjan's 'Chicago', as well as Broken Social Scene's '7/4 Shoreline', the three theme songs to the trip. We were going faster returning, because I was more comfortable with the car and Italian roads (faster being 160 kph or so – around 100 mph.) We crossed the border, and decided to hit some roads through the mountains for the views. Soon, we decided not to go to Wien, but instead drove north to near Salzburg where Jacob's cousins, whom I had met earlier at his house, lived, where his summer house was. This was a capital idea, and the view from the house was astounding – a beautiful lake, with white mountains across on the other side. We showered and were treated to a marvelous dinner – bread, butter, spreads, meat, eggs, all fresh (the place had chickens and cows, after all.) We played on the trampoline, me trying to speak broken German, and then went to the after-dinner daily drinking party thing, where a few Austrian adults drank like Scotsmen and generally held forth in full frivolity. They made more fun of Jacob's americanized Austrian than my own English. After was to bed, or for me, a couch, for one of the few really good sleeps of the trip. The atmosphere was surreal, but I suppose not less so than the rest of the trip.
Day #7, 8. April 6th-7th – Salzburg to Vienna
The next day, after a hearty (I seem to be using that word often. Thick would work. Filling. Huge.) breakfast, we did nothing until coffee with some more old Austrian folks, and then we left to head back to Vienna. That took a few hours, and then we were back, limbs, car and all. We watched 'The Terminal' (strangely fitting, given as I am now stuck in an airport), 'Office Space', 'Ong-Bak', and 'Cinderella Man.' We slept the night away, went online, and pretty much rested for a day and a half, at his house. I watched 'The Sound of Music' for the first sentient time, and was amused at the similarity in landscapes that I had seen. I sovereignly beat Jacob and his dad at rummy, and ate a lot of their chocolate. And then to bed again. Not much worth noting. I tried repeatedly to contact my friends in Germany, whom I was going to go visit, all to no avail. Seeing as how i had suggested the idea, though, it were best that I left soon. All to the good, I think.
Day #9. April 8th – Vienna to Salzburg to Linz to the Czech Republic
We awoke with the dawn, and had more boiled eggs and toast for breakfast. Then I packed, and Mr. Neubacher arranged an easter egg hunt for us two in the back yard, for which I was both embarrassed and grateful, as chocolate is one of the most blessed foods to a traveler. Then we got in the car by 6:30, and drove back to the house in Salzburg for the church there. I skipped out, seeing as it was in German. An hour later, we were headed to Salzburg proper, where the train station was. The Germany plan fell through due to cost, so instead I went and bought a ticket to Prague, through Linz and Ceske Budejovice. That day, after parting, I rode the train to Linz, bought a wonderful fried pizza, and headed north into the Czech Republic. The landscape went from mountains to cute little fielded halls – a woman's country, for small villages. It felt quite feudal, and yet was pretty in its own way. Seeing this, and the beauteous sun, I got off soon into the Czech Republic, and walked around. The land was flat and wide, all plain, with various plots of forest. The people were poor and semi-rural. I walked four to five kilometres to the next train station, and sat there for a long while, planning to sleep there. Just a night hike for the third time. I walked to the next two train stations, through fields and on the tracks, past dogs and gloaming forests. I realized how lonesome lonely travel is, and wished that Brian had come, or that I had stayed with Jacob, or that she would be there. But in the end it was a good hike, and I enjoyed it. I stopped at a nowhere of a train stop, and had 8-10 hours of really, really poor sleep: it was freezing, cold, the bench was hard, the night noises and trains long and heinous. This influenced my decision to get to shelter – given my budget, I ruled for staying outside in Prague, or the airport. The airport won.
Day #10, 11. April 9th-10th – C. Budejovice to Prague
I awoke, freezing. Getting up slowly, I realized how poorly insulated I was, and that my back pains were back. That was about as bad a sleep as you can have while not being physically ill. I went outside of the hut/lean-to in which I had slept, and noted that the train I needed did not, in fact, go there, as it was too small. Therefore I picked up my things and walked two miles to the next station, where I had two boiled eggs and some toothpaste for breakfast, with chocolate as a desert, naturally. The train came, I got on, and went t my destination, where I got on another train immediately for Praha, as the Czech call Prague. That train, to the tune of Harry Nilsson's 'Everybody's Talking', my classic traveling music, took 2 and a half hours. I came into Prague, bought a map, and decided to look for a hostel on foot. I selected first, however, landmarks that I wanted to see in the city. The closest was the Natural History Museum, which was all in Czech and so largely not informative at all, as well as costing 2 quid. They had some really rather excellent specimens, though: a Moa, whose size I had never grasped, a parrot I've wanted to see since last summer, and a few more nerdy things that I alone would consider cool. From there I went and bought some milk and a giant loaf of bread, which, along with soup and cheap tea in the airport, has been my meal these three days. I walked around the city, saw the main square, castle, and other things. I dawdled by the river and ambled by the doodles in the less-good district when I went to the metro, which I stupidly paid for, to get to the airport. On the bust to the port, I talked to an American family from, of all places, Torrington and West Hartford, who were interested in River Run. The world is so small, just when it seems largest. anyway, I then came to the airport, and I have been killing time ever since. I played 50 games of Solitaire, won 15 mediums and one hard (¼ choice deck). I've slept, read DH Lawrence, changed, and gazed into space. I also wrote this entry and some emails. And that's it. I leave tomorrow at 12:20. I'll probably write on the plane, if I don't sleep and really annoy the person next to me with my stench. :D.


